I could have used my F54 blocks which some say is the wiser choice due to the extra support between cylinder walls. Others say the N42 block can be just as strong. I guess I will be the test subject.
Well, like everyone else I sent the block off to be cleaned up, magnafluxed
and milled 5000ths just to make sure block deck is flat without pitts. It was bored 40 over ready for my Arias forged dome pistons. The block was then painted "Black Chrome".
I purchased my E31 240Z head from a guy in Atlanta. I had it pressure tested, cleaned up and milled 10,000ths. All checked out and got it home for assembly.
The head assembly went OK until it was time to install the cam towers. They can be a pain in the ass. You really need to install them with the cam inserted thru them. Then slowly one by one, tighten, untighten, then tighen again while turning the cam. If the cam doesn't turn freely then you got to figure which tower is binding the cam. My N42 head was easy, but this E31 was a bitch which doesn't make sense because they have the exact same cam towers. Once the head was assembled it was set aside for later.
The following is a list of what went in the engine.
I purchased a complete bottom end from a Nissan guru. His name is Sam Nelson of Pensacola, Fl. The crank and rods were balanced and superbly polished and shotpeened. The Pistons are Arias domes 40 over. I sent one rod and piston to Arias to match up a set of rings and wrist pins. A word to the wise. Make sure you do your own dis-assembly prior to sending to Arias or any other company. They may charge you for the dis-assembly. The rings and pins are Nitrade coated. The wrist pins are at least 3 times as thick. Yep, they won't break. My pistons were sent off to be Ceramic coated for high heat. This next thing may be hard to grasp and I may post a pic later. Because this N42 block came from a U.S.vehicle the oil pickup location had to be relocated. If you have ever noticed an extra flat spot just inches away from your oil pickup location is because you can drill out this spot and drill and tap new thread holes to relocate your oil pickup should you need to. Another word to the wise...DON'T forget to drill out and relocate you oil dip stick hole...I forgot. Had no way of knowing how much oil I had. Also if you relocate your oil pickup, you may have to have a custom oil pan made.
Spiral locks: They suck! By the time I finished removing and re-installing the spiral locks on the 4th piston I finally became an expert. Teflon buttons would have been so much more easier.
All my rod and head bolts were replaced with ARP bolts. Make sure you use a good quality socket. I went thru 2 I think before going to NAPA and getting a good quality one.
My head gasket is by MSA. It's a three piece 1mm. steel gasket.
After I installed the head and had it torqued I then proceeded to install the cam towers. Once I installed the cam I then found out what all the hype is about with the cam towers binding up the cam. I had to unloosen the towers many times and retighten them over and over till the cam was turnable by hand. If you can't turn the cam with two fingers and it's making you grunt trying to turn the cam then you need to start the process over again. Patience is the key. I now started to install the rocker arms, lashpads and springs. As I turned the cam away from each rocker arm I then ran into a nightmare. My valves hit my pistons. OH Shit! After careful thought I realized that my Timing chain should have came next. How can my pistons and valves move away from each other if the chain ain't installed. With the timing chain installed I then completed the valve train assembly. Everything rotated nicely.
MORE TO FOLLOW....
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