Jan 21, 2001 - Headline 2
Some may be disappointed, many won't. What side will you be on?

 
OH I can't wait. Like I said in a previous page, I was finished with my high compression "all motor" then hurricane Ivan hit and tore the roof off my 30 X 60 garage. My engine turned bright orange within hours from rust. I started over with a new block and head. I was going to use my F54 block but decided to use an N42 block. I know to test the strength of the N42 could prove costly with all the money I have invested this time. If I crack my block I at least have my F54. Ok where to begin. Like everyone else, I sent my block and head off to the machine shop to check for the usual cracks, warp etc... All checked out OK. I decided to go .40 over with Arias forged dome pistons. Believe me the dome's are ever so slight. Probably the thickness of two dimes. The rods were "pro race prepped" with the balancing, polishing and shotpeening. Same for the Crank. The Machine shop was amazed on how near perfect the crank already was. Whats nice is the rod and main bearings are still standard sizes. I sent my pistons back to Arias to match up a set of rings and new wristpins. (Oh I forgot to tell you, I bought a complete short block from Sam Nelson of Pensacola, Fl.) One of my wrist pins had a crack from end to end. What I got from Arias was a set of Nitrate coated rings and heavy duty nitrate coated wrist pins. The wrist pins are 3 times the thickness of what I'm replacing. Arias was very helpful but a word to the wise, DON'T send a piston still attached to the rod. They may charge you for the dissasembly of the spiral locks holding in the wrist pin. If you need help with your spiral locks, look me up. I am now an expert. Trust me, I didn't say I like to remove and install them.
OK, I have to re-nig on a comment I said up above. Holding a piston in my hand, the dome looks very weak....on the contrary. After installing them and going to top dead center.....I got down at eye level with the block deck and I was amazed at how far the piston rose up out of the block. Not only the dome but also at least 1mm of the deck of the piston. My compression may be higher than what I want.

 
My head is the 240Z E31. I had N42 valves installed, a fresh 3 angle valve job, the throats opened up for better flow. It was milled 15,000ths, the cam towers were shimmed with the same, 15,000ths. My cam is a Schneider cam. 284/294 duration and 490 lift. All other valve train are new to match cam. I chose a 1mm head gasket from MSA. I am hoping to acheive at least 12:1 or higher compression.

 
Whats left?, well I went with all ARP bolts, from main's, rods and head bolts. I opted to get rid of the double pulley and went with a MSA single pulley damper. I decided to get rid of my stock waterpump, so I went with a CSR electric water pump. One less pulley. Does this mean more horsepower? We'll see. I went with a one wire GM alternator from Summit Racing products.

 
My Fuel is supplied by my Nismo external fuel pump. It puts out a measely 5 psi. My triple J-SPEC Mikuni 44 carbs were sent off to Todd Walrich, owner of Wolfcreek Racing. He did a total overhaul on them, to include cleaned them up externally. Thanks Todd, they look great. Hope I can sync them. The guy I mentioned earlier, Sam Nelson, will help me sync them. He is 60 something and is still active in SCCA's vintage racing.
I opted for the MSD 6AL ignition. My sparkplugs are NGK BR10EIX. This was recommended by NGK USA based off my Triple carb set up, compression and one other thing I haven't mentioned yet.

 
As far as dress up items are concerned I sent to Jet Hot in Pascagoula Mississippi, 80 miles from my house, my header, timing chain cover, waterneck and thermal housing, transmission dust cover and intake. Thanks Jet Hot, great job. My engine is painted Matalic gray. My valve cover is powder coated a chromium black. My plug wires are bright yellow Pro-Taylor wires from MSA.

 
My 5spd tranny was completely rebuilt by Andrews Transmission here in Pace, Fl. My clutch is a stage 4 ACT clutch kit by Clutch Speacialties. Mated to that is a 10lb lightweight aluminum flywheel. Also ordered from MSA is a short throw shifter. My rear gears are an R200 411 LSD.

 
Now for the good stuff. After I got my Intake back from Jet Hot I then sent it off to "Cold Fusion". They plumbed all the Nitrous plumbing. I am totally impressed with their work. I feel like I should frame it and hang it on the wall. I ordered their adjustable 200 to 600 shot direct port wet system kit with the large 15lb bottle. To run this system I opted to use a 1 gal. aluminum RCI fuel cell with a Holly black fuel pump with Regulator. These Items are from Summit Racing.

 
OK, I got the block on the engine stand, installed the crank using the ARP bolts, all clearances checked out ok. Next I installed the rings on the piston. Remember to inspect your rings for markings like a "DOT" or a groove cut on the outside edge of the ring. Most likely your #2 ring will have a groove cut on it and is your oil scraper. "THE GROOVE GOES DOWN". One more to look for is the "DOT", it is installed facing up.
Next I installed the piston/rods on the crankshaft. Clearances were good. Next was the ARP head bolts. I wish they used a regular type nut instead of that 12 point nut. DON'T use a 13mm 6 point socket. It seams like it sits firm and snug but it WILL slip. Use a 12mm 12 point socket. Make sure it is of good quality as you may crack the socket while torquing them down. I did, I broke 3 sockets until I got smart and went to sears and got a good craftsman socket. The 1mm head gasket went on then the head. I then installed the cam towers then the rockerarms. MISTAKE. Don't install the rockerarms until you install the timing chain and gears. I freaked out when I went to rotate the cam so I could install the next couple rocker arms and my valves hit my pistons. I'm thinking...."YOU IDIOT", how can the pistons move away as the valves open if the timing chain isn't on? Normally I wouldn't tell anyone about that but if it keeps you from making the same mistake then so be it.